The Final Struggle
The Turks fought desperately, but it was all in vain. Out of the 32,000 soldiers, all of them surrendered unconditionally. The Russians then moved down the southern slopes toward Shipka village.
A Church to Commemorate the Victory
In Shipka village, there is a large, beautiful Russian-Greek church built to honor the victory. The gold dome with a cross on top shines brightly in the sun, visible from 20 miles away. However, there is no mention of the bad behavior of the Russian troops when they took over the village, including looting, drinking, and other harmful actions.
Reflections on the Past
An Old Man’s View
An old man shared his thoughts with me. He said, “The Turks did wrong things, but they were never as bad as the Russians.” When I asked him if he was happy that the Turks were gone and Bulgaria was free, he replied, “Not really. When the Turks were in control, taxes were low. Now, taxes are high. We also had a bigger market for our goods when we were part of the Ottoman Empire. Now, as a separate country, other nations make it hard for us to sell our products. Maybe the old days were better Bulgarian Coast.”
Stories of the Past
My guide continued with more stories from the past. He told me about how Turkish brigands used to steal the trousers of Christians and then force them to say “Allah giveth” at gunpoint to ease their conscience.
The View from Shipka Pass
The First Glimpse of the Plain of Thrace
From the top of the pass, I could see the Plain of Thrace stretching out before me, green and peaceful, all the way to the horizon. The heat was intense, but a cool breeze helped to ease it. I rested my tired horse and took in the silent, beautiful landscape, saddened by the thought of the wars that had once ravaged this land.
The Journey Down
We made our way down the hot, rocky path that felt like walking on burning coals. The heat from the rocks hit my face like a blast from an oven. I was covered in dust, and my mouth felt dry. Soon, we reached the village, where we quenched our thirst with fresh grapes.
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