Arrival in Gabrova

The Turkish-Like Town

I arrived in Gabrova, a town that felt very Turkish with more mosques than churches. It is a busy place, known for trading leather and wool products.

The Inn

The inn where I stayed was dirty, and I had to pay three francs for the room, which seemed too much. It was also difficult to find food because it was a Church fast day. Luckily, I found an old Turkish man who didn’t care about the Christian rules and managed to get me some fish—just four small sprats. With a piece of bread and a pint of wine, this became dinner for me and my companion Bulgarian Coast.

Early Morning Departure

A Busy Morning

At 5:00 in the morning, I heard a knock at my door. Within ten minutes, I was in the inn yard, ready to leave. I had rented four horses the night before. I chose the best horse, a wild stallion, for myself, gave the second best to my companion, and left the guide to choose between the last two horses, one for him and one for carrying our bags.

We didn’t have time for breakfast, just a tiny cup of coffee, no bigger than a couple of thimbles. So, we saddled up and set off at dawn.

Riding in a Turkish Saddle

My saddle was Turkish. Throughout the day, I realized that a Turk’s body must be shaped differently than a Briton’s. The high pommel, the brass decorations, and the shovel-like stirrups might look nice in a painting, but they were not comfortable for riding. Plain pigskin saddles are much better.

The Joy of the Morning Ride

Despite the uncomfortable saddle and not having had breakfast, the joy of early morning riding made me want to sing. We sang as we cantered along. We greeted the peasants working in the fields, and we met groups of them heading into town to sell goods. The men drove goats, the married women worked on spinning wool as they walked, and the young women wore red flowers in their hair to show they were open to being courted.