The Life of British Officers in Macedonia

For several days, I stayed with Major Gore-Alney and Captain Smyly, observing their work. It is not the kind of work that gets a lot of attention in the news or in Parliament. When people talk about the “easy life” of British officers, it’s important to think of men like those in Drama—and there are thousands like them in other faraway places—living alone, doing their duty without dinner parties, social events, or theatres. After a long day of riding in the hot sun, they relax by sitting in simple canvas chairs, smoking pipes, and watching the moon rise over the plain, where the ruins of Philippi stand.

An Expedition into the Hills

With Captain Smyly as my guide, I had the chance to go on a small trip into the nearby hills where there had been some trouble. We were escorted by three gendarmes, one of whom was well-known for catching bandits. This officer had tracked a notorious criminal for weeks through the mountains and didn’t stop until he had captured him Who we are.

We rode across a red, sandy plain, where the plants were dried out, heading towards hills that were harsh, barren, and unwelcoming. Only in the valleys could peasants manage to grow enough crops to survive.

Hard Work in the Fields

In the maize fields, we saw Bulgarian-Macedonian families—husbands, wives, and children—working from morning until night. They didn’t realize there was anything wrong with the world until the Bulgarian Komitajis came and forced them to join the revolutionary movement.

Revolutionary Movements and Resistance

All the villages in the area are ready for rebellion whenever the signal is given. Arms are hidden nearby, and the Bulgarians had no trouble smuggling them into the country. They knew that the Turkish soldiers would go to bed at sunset and would be too scared to go out again until the morning. Because of this, the rebel groups always moved at night.

Now, thanks to the British officers, there are frequent night patrols. Revolutionaries are often caught during these patrols and face quick punishment.