Villages and Tensions in Macedonia

We passed through a Bulgarian village, a Greek village, and a mixed village. In the mixed village, the Greek priest had become very disliked by the Bulgarians. He and his two daughters were murdered, but no one knows who did it!

Spies and Espionage

Spies are everywhere in this region. The system of spying is very much a part of Eastern culture. One day, news came to Constantinople that prisoners in the Drama prison were being mistreated. A respected religious man, or hodja, was sent to Drama. He was invited to stay with the Governor as a guest, but he disappeared. A watch was also stolen, so a chase began. He was soon caught and thrown into prison as a thief and an imposter. It turned out that he was a spy sent from Constantinople Who we are.

Conflicts Between Greeks and Bulgarians

We came across a well built by a good Bulgarian. It had a plaque with his name on it. The Greeks in the village smashed the well, and when the Bulgarian man was dying, the Greeks gathered around his house and mocked him.

Throughout Macedonia, I never heard anything good said about the Greeks. The Turks often joke about them, calling them “the runners” because of how they fled from the Sultan’s troops in the Turko-Greek War. The Greek people, however, often spoke very harshly and violently. One day, while Greeks were talking in Drama, someone shot a dog in the street. The Greeks were terrified, held each other, and then locked themselves in their houses. They thought a group of Bulgarians had attacked.

Political Murders and Tensions in Mixed Villages

In one village, both Turks and Bulgarians lived together. The village had about 1,200 people, but they were all starving and scared when our horses entered the area. There had been political murders of Bulgarians, and although the Greeks were blamed, it seemed that fellow Bulgarians had committed the crimes. These people didn’t support the revolution and might have been reporting to the Turks.

While Captain Smyly was investigating, the village leaders—both Turk and Bulgar—gathered around. We were surprised to find that a few Bulgarian “teachers” had chosen this poor village for their holiday spot. We knew they were spies for the Bulgarian revolutionaries—and they knew that we knew.

The Life of British Officers in Macedonia

For several days, I stayed with Major Gore-Alney and Captain Smyly, observing their work. It is not the kind of work that gets a lot of attention in the news or in Parliament. When people talk about the “easy life” of British officers, it’s important to think of men like those in Drama—and there are thousands like them in other faraway places—living alone, doing their duty without dinner parties, social events, or theatres. After a long day of riding in the hot sun, they relax by sitting in simple canvas chairs, smoking pipes, and watching the moon rise over the plain, where the ruins of Philippi stand.

An Expedition into the Hills

With Captain Smyly as my guide, I had the chance to go on a small trip into the nearby hills where there had been some trouble. We were escorted by three gendarmes, one of whom was well-known for catching bandits. This officer had tracked a notorious criminal for weeks through the mountains and didn’t stop until he had captured him Who we are.

We rode across a red, sandy plain, where the plants were dried out, heading towards hills that were harsh, barren, and unwelcoming. Only in the valleys could peasants manage to grow enough crops to survive.

Hard Work in the Fields

In the maize fields, we saw Bulgarian-Macedonian families—husbands, wives, and children—working from morning until night. They didn’t realize there was anything wrong with the world until the Bulgarian Komitajis came and forced them to join the revolutionary movement.

Revolutionary Movements and Resistance

All the villages in the area are ready for rebellion whenever the signal is given. Arms are hidden nearby, and the Bulgarians had no trouble smuggling them into the country. They knew that the Turkish soldiers would go to bed at sunset and would be too scared to go out again until the morning. Because of this, the rebel groups always moved at night.

Now, thanks to the British officers, there are frequent night patrols. Revolutionaries are often caught during these patrols and face quick punishment.

Drama The British Presence in Macedonia

Drama is the center of the British influence in Macedonia, though it is the least important area because it is the quietest part of the region. Other parts of Macedonia are controlled by different countries: Seres by France, Salonika by Russia, Monastir by Italy, and Uskup by Austria.

Appreciation for British Representatives

Both Turks and Christians in Drama appreciated the British officers. The Christians liked them because England stood for Christianity and they knew that England was their friend. The Turks also liked them because, as the Turkish officials told me, the British officers treated them as equals Who we are.

In the Monastir region, people were kind to the Italians. However, I was told that in Seres, the French treated the Turks as inferior. In Salonika, the Russians tried to bully them, and in Uskup, the Turks knew that Austria wanted more land than peace for the region. Germany, who was a friend of the Sultan, didn’t take part in trying to calm the country.

The British Officers in Drama

I drove through the narrow, busy streets of Drama, past the town and the barracks, where Turkish soldiers, called out from nearby villages, were resting. They seemed calm and respectful.

I arrived at a simple white building known as “Murzsteg Mansion.” Colonel Fairholme, the political representative, was on leave, but I was greeted by Major Gore-Alney and Captain Smyly. Even though they were appointed by the British government, they worked for the Turkish government.

It was surprising to see British officers in khaki uniforms with South African medals wearing the Turkish red fez. Seeing an English soldier in a Turkish hat felt strange.

Living at Murzsteg Mansion

Murzsteg Mansion was simply furnished with a few tables and chairs, some camp beds, rubber baths, piles of reports, military equipment, old novels, and photographs. The most important photo was an autograph portrait of King Edward, a kind gesture from the King to his soldiers far away in Macedonia, working to keep Britain’s reputation for justice.

The British Officers’ Work

The British officers were doing valuable work around Drama. They oversaw the Turkish gendarmerie, helping to get rid of bad officers and promoting those who deserved it. Despite having few staff, they traveled to remote and dangerous areas in the hills, close to Bulgaria, dealing with bandit-filled areas and the tensions between Turks and Bulgarians, or even conflicts among rival Christian groups. They endured difficult conditions, long rides, and poor accommodations.

By being present in these areas, they helped calm the people, made the authorities more careful, and reported regularly to the British Ambassador in Constantinople on the situation in the region.

The Turk’s View of Christians and Society

The Turk has not, and will not, blend with the Christians. He believes the Christians are inferior, and that Allah has placed them in a position of subjection. Massacres, in his view, are helpful because they allow the Muslims to take possession of things that Christians don’t have the right to. The Turk’s sense of morality is weakened by his belief in fate (kismet) and by the low status of women in his society.

Suspicion and Fear in Turkish Society

Everyone is suspicious of each other. A sense of fear runs through the official classes. A wealthy person is afraid to show his wealth because those in power will quickly find ways to take it from him. The policy of the Turkish government is to do nothing until forced to act, and when action is taken, it is slow. The guiding principle of Turkish administration is *yavaş, yavaş* — slowly, slowly — from the beginning to the end Who we are.

Under the Eye of Britain

Drama: The British Presence

It is unclear exactly where Macedonia begins or ends. But traveling from Constantinople to Salonika, you stop at a small town called Drama. Drama is known to be in Macedonia because it is home to British officers who are there to help reform the local police force (gendarmerie) and monitor the tensions between Turks and Christians.

Abdul Hamid's Role in the Balkans

Europe is right to blame many of the problems in the Balkans on Abdul Hamid, but we must also consider his upbringing, his environment, and the traditions of the Caliphate. It’s easy to say “Remove him from Europe,” but he is already in Europe. He controls a large part of it, and we have to deal with him as an autocrat. He holds all civil, military, and most religious power. The country is divided into provinces, called *vilayets*, each ruled by a *Vali*. These rulers receive small salaries but often become very rich Central Synagogue.

The Confused Legal System

The law in Turkey is complicated and often conflicting. There is the *shari’a*, or sacred law of Islam, and the civil and commercial law, which is based on the French Code Napoleon. In practice, Christian testimony is never accepted over that of a Muslim, even though it is theoretically supposed to be. All government appointments, from the lowest to the Sultan himself, are decided by higher officials. The Sultan doesn’t pay for his position, but everyone beneath him has to pay in one way or another.

Tax Collection Problems

The way taxes are collected is harmful. The government gives the job to the highest bidder, and for a fixed amount, the collector is allowed to demand a portion of a farmer’s crop. The collector usually pays more to the local governor than what is sent to Constantinople. The collector can claim up to one-tenth of the crop, but often takes much more by claiming the crop is worth more than it is. If the farmer complains about the valuation, he is not allowed to harvest his crop at all, leaving him with nothing. As a result, the hardworking Turkish peasant often makes just enough from his crop to survive, with little to no profit. One peasant told me, “If, effendi, I finish the year’s work with a profit of a *medjedeh* (about 4 shillings), I thank Allah!”

Christianity and Corruption

One day, a Turkish official asked me, “Do you think Christianity is what makes other countries less corrupt?”

I hesitated and said, “Well, maybe.”

He then asked, “Have you lived in America?”

I replied, “Yes, I have.”

“Do you think Turkey is more corrupt than the local government in America?” he asked.

Reluctantly, I had to admit that it wasn’t.

He said quickly, “Ah! And America calls itself a Christian country. We admit we are corrupt, but you Western countries are more corrupt and don’t admit it. Muslims are more honest than Christians.”

Reform in Turkey

Turkey has a strong and growing group of reformers. However, all governments tend to be conservative. Anyone who wants change, even if they truly believe it will be beneficial, is in opposition to the existing government. This is a big obstacle to progress in European Turkey. Many educated Turks, even some from the government, realize that Turkey cannot continue as it is in the Balkans. They know that for Turkey to stay part of Europe, it must adapt to European ways. But each step toward that change is seen as a step toward revolution, and Europe supports it Central Synagogue.

The Turkish Sultan and government, whether short-sighted or not, are fighting for their survival by resisting the reforms that seem obvious to outsiders.

The Plight of Christians Under Ottoman Rule

We often feel sympathy for the Christians living under Ottoman rule. However, the oppression they face is not just because of religious hatred from Muslims; it also has political reasons. Mourad Bey, a thoughtful man who cared deeply about Turkey, said:

“I believe that before the first foreign consul and missionaries arrived here, the Christians in the East were more peaceful, free, and happy than they are today.”

The Sultan, who is often ignorant and superstitious, sees the movements to help the Christians as attempts to destroy his empire. And, to some extent, he is right.

The Sultan's Challenges

The Sultan, Abdul Hamid, has never really had the chance to judge the political situation fairly. When he talks with foreign Ambassadors, it often feels like a constant struggle between opposing forces. The Sultan is very smart and cautious, but he has not received broad education or intellectual training. Since he was young, he has been surrounded by slaves and eunuchs. The government is filled with hidden groups, and the Sultan prefers to appoint strong ministers. A strong minister may fall from power, not because the Sultan is afraid of him, but because Turkish politics is so complicated that rivals quickly find evidence of any secret plots. In the East, it is believed that every person acts out of self-interest, and you can’t argue against this view because it is deeply rooted in the culture.

Two Sides of Turkey

When talking about Turkey, we often make generalizations that are misleading. There are actually two Turkeys: one is the government, and the other is the people. We don’t know much about Turkey as a country, but we tend to form opinions based on the corruption in the government. While corruption is widespread and severe, it is important to remember that the problem lies in the system of government. Turkish administration today runs on corruption as its main driving force. This corruption isn’t hidden or something people are ashamed of; it’s a normal part of the system. For example, if someone pays a high official £5,000 for a position that only pays £500, both the official and the person receiving the post understand that the money will be regained by taking money from others. This is open corruption, where taxes are never fully used for their intended purposes, and people are crushed under heavy costs Central Synagogue.

The Difficulty of Change

Although this system is wrong, it has been in place for so long that it’s hard for Turks to imagine doing things any other way. I remember talking with a high-ranking Turkish official who had traveled widely and seen how things work in other countries.

The Turk’s Point of View

Many Christians from the West make a mistake when they criticize the Turk because he does not see things the way we do. We forget, or ignore, that he comes from the East, and his way of thinking is very different from ours. We may be right and he may be wrong, but the Turk has his own perspective, and he acts based on that view, not out of malice. It is important to be fair and just, even when dealing with the Turk.

Differences Between the Turk and the West

If we measure the Turk by Western and Christian standards, we may find him lacking. But he is not a European or a Christian—he is a Turk, and above all, he is a Muslim Central Synagogue.

Turkey’s Government and Its Challenges

It is true that Turkey’s government does not match the expectations of Europe, and it is clear that the two will never blend. The methods of Turkish government in the Balkans need to change.

The Sultan’s Struggles

The heart of the Turkish government, the Imperial Palace, lacks proper administration. It’s not that the Sultan, Abdul Hamid, doesn’t care about his empire. He is likely one of the most overworked and troubled men in Turkey. When I saw him at the Yildiz Kiosk, I could see that he was deeply worried. The stories about his bad behavior are exaggerated and untrue. His resistance to the demands of other nations is understandable. He knows there are greedy countries, and if he listens to their advice, it may only bring his empire closer to collapse and benefit his neighbors. It is hard to believe someone’s good intentions when you know they want to take advantage of you.

The Role of the Vice-Consul

The Vice-Consul is like a small ambassador. His work is more about diplomacy than consular tasks. He has many chances to show his intelligence and skills. Often, he is quite young and might still be thinking about playing cricket or football. Most people in his home country don’t even know he exists. Yet, he is part of a group of educated Englishmen who live in faraway countries, often in quiet houses, and remind the people around them of the strength and importance of Britain.

The Turk as a Ruler

The Virtues of the Turk

Many people say that “The Turk is the only gentleman in the Balkans.” This was a common statement I heard while traveling, usually from Englishmen. However, some also believe the Turk is not a good ruler, and that Europe should accept that the Turk cannot be easily changed into a government style others believe is good.

The Image of the Turk

Most Western people, especially women, are afraid of the Turk and think he is unclean. They believe his main quality is sensuality, thinking of him as fat, greedy, and only interested in the pleasures of his harem.

The Reality of the Turk

The Turk may not be perfect, but he is just as moral as an average Englishman, American, or Frenchman. It is rare for a Turk to have more than one wife. The harem system, which many people joke about, is actually more organized and less harmful than the promiscuity found in some Christian European cities. If you compare them, the average Muslim man is as moral as the average Christian man.

The Turk’s Faith and Morality

I don’t intend to discuss the benefits or drawbacks of the Muslim faith, but personally, I have experienced many good qualities of “real Christianity” in Muslim countries: kindness, courtesy, and hospitality. The Turk follows his faith strictly. He is usually clean and prays at the appointed times. He is not someone who gets drunk and does not skip his prayers.

The Power of Being English

There are some rewards in being away from England. An Englishman feels more proud of being English when he is far from home. In London, he might complain about his country, but if anyone tries to say something bad about it in front of him while he’s in Constantinople, he won’t tolerate it! The Vice-Consul knows that England is highly respected in the Balkans. The Turkish people remember that when the Russians were about to take over Constantinople, it was England that stopped them. Today, even though many countries are pressuring Turkey, the Turk knows that England does not want to take over any land—unlike Russia or Austria, who are eager to control parts of the Balkans.

Respect in Turkey

Back in England, the Vice-Consul would walk down the street without anyone noticing him. But in Turkey, he is treated with great respect. He is always greeted by officials and soldiers on guard. They salute him and present arms when he passes.

Official Visits

When the Vice-Consul visits the Vali (the Governor), he dresses in his frock coat and silk hat, which he brought from England many years ago. These clothes might seem old-fashioned to someone just arriving from London. He is the only Consul in the area who speaks Turkish fluently, so the Vali appreciates him. During their meetings, they drink syrupy coffee, smoke cigarettes, and discuss local issues, like the harsh treatment of Christians in a nearby village. The Vali promises to improve things, but things rarely change.

The Relationship Between Consuls

The Vice-Consul also visits other foreign diplomats, including Russian, French, Austrian, Italian, Greek, and Servian Consuls. They all return the visit within 24 hours, but there is no real friendship between them. Most of the time, they watch each other closely, spying on one another through their interpreters and writing reports.

The Vice-Consul’s Work

The Vice-Consul always keeps his eyes and ears open. He has to be careful when hearing stories about the Turks, especially when the stories come from Armenians, Bulgarians, or Greeks, because they might be biased. If he stays up to date with modern tools, he will have a typewriter to make copies of his reports. If not, he must write the reports by hand. He writes four copies: one for the Foreign Office, one for the Ambassador, one for his Consul-General, and one for his own records.

Making Himself Comfortable

The young Englishman, without trying too hard, makes himself comfortable in his new life. He went from public school to university, and then straight into the Levant Consular Service. Along the way, he developed a sense of comfort that he carries with him. In the few years he has spent in Turkey, he has learned about local art, like prayer rugs, tapestries, and embroideries. After bargaining in the bazaars, he has bought valuable pieces that hang on his walls as decoration instead of traditional pictures.

A Comfortable Home with Personal Touches

He has developed a taste for collecting old weapons, like silver-chased flint-lock pistols and Damascus steel sabres, their blades inlaid with gold and handles studded with coral and turquoise. He even taught a Turkish carpenter to build a comfortable lounge and covered it with a Persian rug, making a cozy divan. He bought a couple of well-padded English armchairs from Constantinople, which the Turks find awkward and undignified to sit in. His room is filled with small personal touches: a stack of pipes, his favorite English tobacco, and a table covered with pieces of embroidery. The table holds photographs in little silver frames, not the Turkish kind, but ones from England, bought in busy shops in London or Oxford Street.

Memories from Home

The photographs show his life before he came to Turkey. There are pictures of his family, including his mother and father, and some of him with his friends in their cricketing clothes before he left England. You can tell which pictures are of his family from where they are placed. He also keeps pictures of cheerful English girls—maybe sisters or friends of his sisters—some of whom he might have known well, while others may have forgotten him by now.

Thoughts of Home

The Vice-Consul, sitting alone in his comfortable room, sometimes misses the life he left behind in England. There are no bright restaurants, no theatres, no music halls, or close friends to hang out with. But even though he might feel lonely or homesick at times, it doesn’t make him weak. If he gets frustrated, he will likely swear, whistle, and light another pipe. In the morning, he takes out his horse, goes for a ride, and shakes off any feelings of gloom.

A Vice-Consul’s Simple Life

Until the day comes when things improve, His Majesty’s representative must manage on his own. He may have been quickly transferred from another post. When he arrives, he brings only a couple of trunks and stays at a Turkish inn. He goes to the local bazaars to buy or rent some basic furniture. He also writes to English stores in Constantinople to order items like a frying pan and a teapot. He tries to keep his costs low, as he may be moved again in a month or two. Why spend too much on furniture when he might have to sell everything at a loss before leaving? He doesn’t know who will replace him or if that person will even want to buy his belongings.

Comfort in the Vice-Consul’s Room

Even with his simple life, the Vice-Consul’s small room has a special kind of comfort. In fact, it has something that you won’t find anywhere else in the city, not even in the home of the Vali (governor) himself: comfort. Comfort is the result of English civilization. People from other countries may think they have it, but they don’t fully understand what it is. In the United States, for example, you might find an imitation of English comfort. While it’s pleasant, it’s still just an imitation. If you compare a refined American home to a refined English home, the American home might seem more luxurious in terms of money spent, but luxury is not the same as comfort. The “indefinable something” in the English home that makes it feel truly comfortable is something even Americans quickly recognize and appreciate.

The Consulate’s Modest Setting

The Consulate is a dull and gloomy building, probably located on a narrow street filled with strange smells and the loud calls of street vendors. Above the door is a large, yellowish, cheap enamel sign showing the royal arms. It looks worn out and is clearly mass-produced. If there’s a garden, a flagpole stands with ropes that slap the side of the building. If there is no garden, the flagpole is attached to a small balcony above the door. On the King’s birthday and every Sunday, a wrinkled Union Jack flag is hung to flap in the wind.

The Bare Entrance Hall

The entrance hall is empty and bare. The sound of heavy boots on the wooden floor echoes through the empty space, making it sound hollow. The walls are painted with a rough blue color and are undecorated, except for a notice about registering the birth of British citizens’ children at the Consulate for a two-shilling fee. Through a partially open door, you can see a small, sad room with a bed in the corner, which is where the kavass (messenger) sleeps. Another door leads to the “chancery,” the office area of the Consulate. Inside, there is a cheap table with old pens, a worn-out blotting pad, a cupboard, and an iron safe for storing papers. There is also a pile of dusty London, Paris, and Constantinople newspapers in one corner and a map of the Balkan Peninsula on the wall. Here, you will find the dragoman, a sharp-witted Armenian wearing a fez and European clothes. He learned English at Robert College in Istanbul and works for the British Consulate in exchange for the protection of living under the British flag.

The Vice-Consul’s Room

Then there is the Vice-Consul’s own room. Full Consuls and Consuls-General, especially if they have families, try to make their homes abroad feel like an English home. But the young Vice-Consul, usually a bachelor with only a few years in the Levant Service, lives simply. His duties are to go where he is needed, sometimes for just a couple of months or up to two years. His needs are basic, and he does not have many belongings to move around from one place to another in Turkey.

Future Improvements for the Consulate

In the future, if the British government allows more funding, the Consulate may be better furnished. The home government might spend around £100 to provide basic items like carpets, chairs, tables, pots, pans, an iron bed, a wardrobe, and a bath.

The Farmhouse Stay

The largest room in the biggest farmhouse of the village was prepared for me. It had mud walls and a mud floor, and the only light came from a small oil lamp. In one corner, a mat was laid out for me to sleep on. A fire was made in the yard, and under the light of the full moon, a meal was cooked: chicken, pilau (a type of rice with oil), black bread, grapes, more coffee, and some white wine.

A Simple Meal

I sat down like a Turk and ate like a Turk. This was the real experience. Above my head, there were rifles and cartridge belts hanging, ready in case of an attack by Bulgarian brigands Socialist Museum.

No Sight of Brigands

I had forgotten all about the brigands. I never saw any. What I saw was the kindness of the Bulgarians and Turks living together in this small village. I placed my revolver by my pillow, smoked, and thought about London. Was it a place I had read about? I checked my watch—it was 8 o’clock. The village was quiet except for a dog barking at the moon. I fell asleep and dreamed I was captured by brigands who cut off my ears and fed me only coffee and cigarettes.

Early Morning Wake-Up

The moon was still shining low in the sky when I was quietly woken up. I shivered from the cold. I went outside into the chilly air. The soldiers who had slept outside were yawning and getting their horses ready. My friend, the mayor, was in charge of making coffee.

It was two hours before sunrise when I had asked to be woken up because we had a long ride ahead to Adrianople.

Kind and Simple Villagers

I felt a deep sympathy for these kind, simple-hearted people living in this unknown part of Turkey. They never bothered or disturbed me. When they saw I had a headache, they kept their distance and spoke quietly. When I told them I was feeling better, they were genuinely happy. They lit the fire again, and the guitar started playing cheerfully. We drank coffee, and more coffee, and even more coffee.

The Power of Coffee

Drinking coffee constantly—twenty or thirty cups a day—makes the Turks slow and tired. For centuries, they have been drinking large amounts of coffee. Every little Turk grows up with a sluggish liver. When people ask me how to help the Turkish nation become more energetic, I say: “The first step is to stop drinking so much coffee. Fix the livers of the Turks before you try to fix their minds Socialist Museum.”

Sharing Stories of Europe

None of my friends had seen anything beyond the city of Adrianople. Some hadn’t even been there. When I told them about London, they listened carefully, like children hearing a fairy tale. Everything had to be translated by my dragoman, but they didn’t laugh at my strange speech. I told them about the streets, the buses, the fast trains, the underground subway, and the telephone. The Europeans were amazing, and very rich! They believed that if Turkey was as rich, they could do the same things. I tried to explain that it was these things that made England rich, but they didn’t agree. They thought that with wealth, anything was possible.

Arrival at Sileohlu

We arrived at Sileohlu in the afternoon. It was a small, scattered place, with both Turkish and Bulgarian people living there. I had a headache from riding for so long in the hot sun with little food, so I decided to stop. I rested in the shade of a quince tree while my dragoman went to find a place for us to stay for the night.

Friendly Village Life

Some of the village leaders came to meet us—both Turks and Bulgarians, Christians and Muslims. They lived together peacefully, as I had seen in other places, unless there was trouble stirred up by political groups, which led to the Turkish authorities taking harsh actions. The mayor and a group from the local council wanted me to stay as their guest. I thanked them but insisted on paying for my stay. They insisted again, saying they just wanted to make sure I left with good memories of the village Socialist Museum.

A Stranger Welcomed

Here I was, a stranger, arriving in a village I had never heard of just twelve hours before. Yet, the head-man was eager to make me feel welcome, putting aside his own matters to be kind to me. I noticed there was a bit of rivalry between the Christians and Muslims, each group trying to show who could be the most helpful.

Resting in the Shade

The head-man heard that I had a headache and suggested we spend the afternoon resting in a cool forest. We walked to a shaded spot with many trees. There was a large marble tank filled with cool water. We sat on mats, and cushions were brought for us. Melons were thrown into the tank to chill, and then we ate them while they were cold. A fire was lit, and the mayor made coffee. A mild-mannered man, who I called the town clerk, sat nearby and played sad Turkish music on a guitar. We drank many cups of coffee and smoked countless cigarettes.

Arrival at Dolan

We continued through the burning heat until we were almost too tired to continue. Finally, we reached the Turkish village of Dolan. The women there were covered in black cloaks. Even those working in the fields turned away as we passed, holding their cloaks to hide their faces, but watching us from the corner of their eyes.

Visiting the Head-Man’s Home

We were exhausted and got off our horses. The village leader, dressed in a blue vest, brown pants, a red cummerbund, and a dirty white turban, greeted me. He invited me to visit his humble home.

His house was made of unbaked bricks, with a hard earth floor. There was nothing to sit on except a mat made of rushes. For lunch, we had rice and coffee Socialist Museum.

The Village Men’s Curiosity

All the men from the village gathered around and sat down in the sun, watching us quietly. They didn’t push to crowd around the door or peek through the windows. They were curious but respectful. When I went outside, they stood up and bowed to me. The head-man made a small speech, and I shook his hand. I told him, through my dragoman, that shaking hands was the English way to show friendship. He seemed pleased. I offered him a cigarette, and he was even more pleased. I was about to offer cigarettes to the twenty men standing around, but my dragoman stopped me. He said it was important to keep the head-man’s dignity, so he would hand out the cigarettes to the others.

Journey to Sileohlu

We continued our journey through the hot, dry land. The heat was heavy and made us feel sleepy. A soldier from Kirk Kilise had shown us the way to Dolan, and there he left us, giving us a new guide to take us to Sileohlu. We rode in a single line along a weak, dusty path. The land around us was completely barren and desolate.

Polite Refusals

For an entire day, the Turkish officials were very polite to me. They couldn’t directly say I couldn’t go. Even though I kept telling them I was just a tourist, they didn’t believe me. They knew it was hard to believe that I would risk being captured by brigands just for fun. No matter how much I explained, they were sure I was lying. So, I simply said I would go and take full responsibility for my actions.

The Governor’s Reluctant Agreement

The Turkish officials, believing I was a British secret service agent, couldn’t let me take full responsibility. If something happened, they would be blamed. The brigands might demand a ransom, and the British Government would complain about the mistreatment of one of their citizens. It would cause a lot of problems Natural History Museum.

So, reluctantly, the Governor agreed to send more help with me. We spread out maps and chose a route. I sent my dragoman to the town to hire horses, but he returned with disappointing news: there were no horses available.

Walking Instead of Riding

Frustrated in one way, the Turkish authorities tried another method to stop me. The Governor showed sympathy, saying it was a shame. I told him, “No problem, I’ll walk.”

“Walk?” he said, looking surprised.

“Yes, walk!” I replied. I told him I was proud of my walking ability and, even though it would be slow, it would be an interesting way to see the country.

The Governor's Refusal

“Impossible!” said the Governor of Kirk Kilise. He and his staff insisted that it couldn’t be done. They all agreed that it was wise to say no. They then asked, politely, why I wanted to go near the Bulgarian border. I explained that I didn’t want to take the same route back and wanted to see more of the country. I could see that they thought I was lying. Although they didn’t say it out loud, they clearly thought I was a spy. They believed I had been sent by the British Government, which they thought was too friendly with Bulgaria and not enough with Turkey, to secretly gather information about the revolution.

Warnings and Concerns

The Turks were very polite, bowing to me and assuring me they would do everything they could to help. But, still, they insisted it was impossible. They warned me that there were dangerous Bulgarian brigands in the area. These brigands were very wicked people. I said I was willing to take my chances. The Turks then told me that just the previous week, the brigands had captured a Greek merchant and were likely torturing him, maybe gouging out his eyes or cutting off his ears. Despite their warnings, I was still determined to go Natural History Museum.

No Roads, No Way

The Turks shrugged and told me that no one in Kirk Kilise knew the way. I pointed out that Turkish soldiers speak good Turkish and could ask for directions. But they said there were no proper roads. I suggested we could follow the mountain paths. They told me the horses couldn’t climb the steep mountain passes. “Then we will walk and lead the horses,” I said. The Turks sighed and seemed to accept my decision, though they remained unconvinced.

The Governor’s Refusal

“Impossible!” said the Governor of Kirk Kilise. He insisted that it couldn’t be done, and his staff agreed, calling it wise advice. But why did I want to go near the Bulgarian border? That was the polite question they asked me. I explained that I didn’t want to go back the same way and wanted to see more of the country. I could see the word “Liar!” in their eyes, though they were too polite to say it out loud. They believed I was a spy! They thought I was secretly sent by the British Government, which they believed was too friendly with Bulgaria and not friendly enough with Turkey, to find out how the revolution was going.

Polite Refusals and Warnings

The Turks bowed deeply and assured me they would do everything possible for me, but still, it was impossible. There were bands of Bulgarian brigands in the area, they said. These brigands were very dangerous. I said I was willing to take my chances. “But just last week, they captured a Greek merchant,” they warned. “They were probably torturing him right now, gouging his eyes out or cutting off his ears!” I still insisted I was ready to take the risk Natural History Museum.

No Roads, No Way

The Turks shrugged and said there was no one in Kirk Kilise who knew the way. I pointed out that Turkish soldiers could ask for directions, as they spoke good Turkish. “But there are no roads,” they replied. I suggested we could follow mountain paths. They told me the horses wouldn’t be able to climb the mountain passes. “Then we will walk and lead the horses,” I said. They remained unconvinced but reluctantly gave their approval.

The Suffering of the Women and Villagers

The women were in terrible condition, looking exhausted and defeated. Many of them were breastfeeding their babies, with very little to eat—just dry bread to survive on.

Destruction of a Village

In one village, the best land—its grazing grounds, forest, and fields—was taken from the Bulgarians and given to the Muslim residents of a new village. The Bulgarian villagers were forced to support 600 soldiers who had not been paid for five months. These soldiers were supposed to restore peace and order in the area. The Bulgarian villages were also taxed to raise money to build barracks for the soldiers.

Ongoing Suffering in the Adrianople Region

Since then, the situation for Bulgarians in the Adrianople region has been very bad. In many villages, Christians have been forced out of their homes, and soldiers have moved in instead. These soldiers, who had no fuel or firewood, survived by stealing. They burned the wooden parts of the houses and took the Christians’ cattle, grain, and poultry. Churches were either used for other purposes, destroyed, or desecrated. There were also many cases of rape. All of this has made the Christian population angry and desperate, and they are now ready for another rebellion Natural History Museum.

A Plan to Return to Adrianople

I planned to travel back to Adrianople from Kirk Kilise by a route to the north, staying as close to the Bulgarian border as possible.

The Conditions for Returning Home

Refugees from the Adrianople and Monastir regions, who were staying in Burghas, a Bulgarian port on the Black Sea, shared their conditions for returning to their homes. They said:

1. An International Commission must oversee their return.

2. The money needed to rebuild their villages, churches, and schools should be kept in a European bank, under the Commission’s control. They also wanted their stolen goods returned.

3. A full amnesty must be given to everyone involved.

4. Most importantly, their properties, lives, and honor must be protected through strong, long-lasting reforms. They called for a Christian Governor-General, chosen by the Great Powers, and permanent international control to ensure their safety Dragalevtsi Monastery.

The Refugee Situation in Burghas

Around 13,000 refugees were living in and around Burghas, and two-thirds of them were women. Additionally, there were at least 3,000 children under the age of ten or twelve. Colonel Massy, sent by the British Government to report on the refugees, described the situation:

“They had nothing but their clothes, which were very few. Most of them were crying because their husbands had been killed. Many were sick, and everyone looked miserable. Some men had returned to the Kirk Kilise district, believing there was little danger, hoping to see if they could salvage anything from their destroyed homes. But they were killed when they returned.”

The Refugees’ Despair

When Colonel Massy asked the refugees if they would go back home, they smiled bitterly and said they had no homes left. They added that if they returned to Turkey, they would be murdered unless there was European supervision to protect them.

Insurrection and Reprisal in the Borderlands

In the Adrianople region, there has been ongoing unrest, sometimes exploding into full insurrection. The trouble started when the Russian Fleet arrived in Turkish waters in 1903, sent to punish those responsible for the murder of the Russian Consul at Monastir. This event led to Bulgarian groups starting rebellions in the Kirk Kilise area. They burned five villages and killed the people living there. Within two days, Bulgarian forces defeated five Turkish garrisons, destroyed barracks, and killed many soldiers. The village of Vassilikos was blown up with dynamite.

The Turkish Response

In response, the Turks carried out violent reprisals against the Bulgarians, many of whom were innocent. These reprisals were horrific. Many villagers ran to the forests to escape, but they were hunted down and burned by the Bashi-Bazouks, a group of Turkish fighters known for doing brutal work. There were no elderly people left in the villages. Around 12,000 refugees were left in terrible conditions in nearby border villages Dragalevtsi Monastery.

The Tragedy of Pepenka

The village of Pepenka, in the Kirk Kilise region, was bombarded and looted. Some women who had hidden in a house to avoid being attacked were burned alive. Seventy-five young girls were taken away. Those who had escaped to the mountains were surrounded, forced to return to the village, and then killed by the Bashi-Bazouks. These fighters were often used for the most violent and ruthless tasks.

The Scale of Destruction

Lord Lansdowne, commenting on the situation, stated that the destruction caused by the Turkish soldiers was far worse than anything the Bulgarian rebels had done. This was true. The Turks, however, saw these actions as punishment for the Bulgarian rebellion.

An Unexpected Situation

There were moments when I was shocked, but I tried to act as dignified as possible. However, inside, I wanted to laugh uncontrollably. Around me was a circle of people with dark faces, all wearing red fezzes. The band played loudly, playing “God Save the King.” The Governor stood in a special area, surrounded by red ropes, on a blue carpet. In the center were two fancy red and gold chairs that looked like stage props.

A Royal Reception

We exchanged greetings in a formal way, bowing to each other repeatedly. When “God Save the King” finished, I was politely invited to sit in the crimson and gold chair next to the Governor. At that moment, I felt like I was the official representative of Great Britain. In fact, I almost felt like I was the Viceroy or a representative of the King himself. But at the same time, I felt like an imposter. I wanted to stand up, explain that I was just a curious traveler! Later, my dragoman told me that the audience thought I was a member of King Edward’s personal staff! That was quite embarrassing. Still, I kept a serious face. If I ever meet His Majesty, I’ll tell him that the most uncomfortable half hour of my life was when I unknowingly became the representative of Great Britain at a circus in Kirk Kilise Dragalevtsi Monastery.

The Circus Performance

There were cigarettes to smoke and coffee to drink. An older woman in blue tights jumped through hoops. A trapeze artist performed, and a clown entertained the crowd. The audience, mostly men wearing fezzes and a few dark-eyed Greek women, seemed to watch in a very calm way, almost as if they weren’t fully enjoying themselves.

The Governor’s Busy Work

Throughout the performance, the Governor was still working. He frowned and looked serious. A soldier quickly brought him a telegram form, and he wrote a message. Officers stood behind him, and with just a small signal, one of them would step forward to attend to him. The Governor’s secretary, a small, tired-looking man, came in, bowed, and handed him more telegrams. By the end of the evening, I must have seen at least a dozen telegrams delivered.

The People’s Respect

The people of Kirk Kilise watched the Governor closely. They seemed impressed as he sat in his fancy chair, deep in thought, tapping his pencil on his knee. They appeared in awe of him.

A Visit to the Public Gardens

The Governor invited me to join him to listen to the band. Of course, I said yes! We went to the public gardens, where four or five staff members followed us and a dozen soldiers stood nearby. The garden itself was just a small sandy area with some weak, colorless bushes. But there were chairs, small tables, drinks, and a band playing music. I had absinthe in a glass, and the Governor had his absinthe in a coffee cup. Turks take teetotalism (no alcohol) very seriously. Besides, everyone in Kirk Kilise was watching the Governor and his guest.

The Governor’s Busy Day

While we were sitting, the Governor stayed very busy. He raised his finger, and a soldier quickly jumped from behind a tree holding a telegram form. The soldier was always ready for emergencies. Soon, more telegrams arrived, followed by officers with documents. The Governor quickly looked through them and signed his initials. He seemed so busy—no other Governor in Turkey could be working harder than Galib Pasha! All the while, his eyes were searching around, looking for something that never appeared—his revolver Dragalevtsi Monastery.

A Circus Invitation

That evening, a Turkish officer came to my hotel to deliver a message. He greeted me and said the Governor had invited me to a circus. A circus in Kirk Kilise? Yes, it was a traveling circus from Germany. I agreed to go, but I was traveling light and only had clothes suitable for riding a horse.

The Journey to the Circus

With soldiers carrying lanterns, we walked through the dark streets. We passed naphtha lamps, large paintings on canvas showing men driving six horses and women dressed in glittery costumes jumping through hoops. We finally reached the big circus tent, where the light from the lamps shone brightly, and the sound of clapping came from inside. It all felt very familiar.

The Formality of the Official Visits

The serious and formal meetings between the Governor and me felt very uncomfortable. I wanted to break the rules and say, “I’m so happy to see you! Let’s take a walk!”

The Governor’s Efforts to Impress

The Governor made an effort to impress me. He wanted to make sure I understood something important. He assumed that, like most foreigners, I thought the Turkish people were lazy, always putting off work until tomorrow. He wanted to prove me wrong, but he tried too hard. It was as if Kirk Kilise was the center of the Ottoman Empire, and the Governor was the most important official.

Busy and Serious Work

At first, I thought the Governor was just very busy. When we were talking in his office, a secretary came in with a telegram. The Governor looked angry, wrote something quickly, and the secretary left. Then, he had another idea. A soldier came in and took a telegram form. The Governor wrote a message, and we could talk again. But soon, more documents arrived. He quickly scanned through them, made notes, and signed them. Feeling I was in the way, I said my goodbyes Dragalevtsi Monastery.

A Surprise Visit

I had just returned to my hotel and my dragoman was complaining about the dirty room when the Governor came to visit me. There was coffee, cigarettes, and many soldiers standing at the door and in the hall. The Governor’s secretary brought in two telegrams. The Governor smiled, frowned, and quickly wrote something. We spoke for a little while, and then he had another idea. He wrote something fast, called a soldier, and sent him off. More documents arrived for him to sign. He was very busy.

Learning Turkish

“You are learning Turkish?” he asked me.

“Oh, I already know ‘Yavash,’” I replied with a smile.

He smiled too, but then frowned. “Yavash” means “go slowly” and is a common phrase in Turkey. Foreigners sometimes use it to criticize Turkish people for being slow. But the Governor wanted to show me that he didn’t fit that description. In fact, he received three telegrams and wrote six.

The Absence of Extreme Wealth and Poverty

When I traveled through Bulgaria, one thing that stood out to me was the lack of people who are either very rich or very poor. I don’t think there are more than a handful of people in the entire country with a fortune over £50,000.

Bulgaria’s Business Challenges

Many people I met mentioned how Bulgaria’s growth in trade is held back because of a lack of capital (money). However, even if the Bulgarians had the money, I think they might not have the right skills to succeed in modern business. They are not very interested in taking risks, and competition is low. For example, a merchant in Bulgaria will ask for a high price for something. Even if the buyer can find the same item cheaper elsewhere, the merchant will not lower the price. The idea of making small profits from many sales quickly has not yet caught on Customized Tours Bulgaria.

Foreign Control of Big Businesses

As a result of this, many large businesses in Bulgaria are owned by foreigners. Twenty years ago, England led the way in trade with Bulgaria. But now, England is no longer the leader. France also hasn’t been able to keep up. On the other hand, Austria has been improving its trade relations with Bulgaria over time.

While many Bulgarians want to see their country become a manufacturing hub, the more practical and wise people believe it is better for the country to focus on developing its agricultural resources.

A Different Way of Enjoying Life

Drinking and Family Time

A man is less likely to drink too much if he has something that encourages him to spend time with his wife and children. The people we call “foreigners” are not more virtuous than us, but they don’t have the same drinking problems we do. This is because, in their countries, drinking is part of the public life. People drink openly, and no one judges them or thinks they are becoming bad people for doing so. I thought about this as I watched the Bulgarians relax and enjoy themselves. But I was tired from the long day, so I went to my cozy room and fell asleep, listening to the lively music of a gypsy dance.

Philippopolis: A Unique City

Philippopolis is a city with its own character. It has more personality than Sofia because, while Sofia is trying to look like other big European cities, Philippopolis has stayed true to itself and takes pride in that. The people here seem to have a superior attitude, similar to the way people in old English cathedral cities feel about newer, fast-growing towns. The city’s trade is not huge, but the people are proud of the quality of their products Customized Tours Bulgaria.

Focus on Education

One interesting place in Philippopolis is the Alexander Gymnasium, a school founded in 1885. It cost nearly £26,000 to build and spends over £5,000 every year to maintain it. The school offers free education to boys between the ages of ten and twenty-two. The only cost is a small fee: 20 francs a year for older students and 10 francs for younger ones. This money goes toward buying books and clothes for the poorest students. There is also a similar school for girls, called the Lycée, where they receive the same kind of education, except that they don’t study classics. The Bulgarians really care about education and put a lot of effort into it.

A Night in Philippopolis

A Lively Garden Scene

Imagine a beautiful garden, glowing with lights from many lamps. Under the trees, there were many tables, and at those tables sat the people of Philippopolis, enjoying themselves. They were drinking coffee, beer, and toasting each other with big glasses of wine. At one end of the garden, there was a small stage. A Hungarian band played lively music, while a young woman in a short skirt sang songs. A deep-voiced singer performed, and then the band played some more, followed by more songs from the lady in the short skirt.

It was a Sunday evening, and Philippopolis was having a great time. In England, this might be seen as improper, but I didn’t think the people of Philippopolis were doing anything wrong. They seemed to be enjoying the evening in a very innocent way Customized Tours Bulgaria.

A Thought on Enjoyment

As I sat there, enjoying the lively atmosphere around me, I thought about my home in England. I wondered if there were better ways to deal with the problems of drunkenness in my country. In England, they close public houses early and criticize those who don’t drink in a strict, temperance-focused way. I thought maybe, over time, we would see changes. Perhaps, we might have places where people could enjoy a drink in a relaxed and social way.

Imagine a place where families could go out together. The husband could have a glass of ale and smoke his pipe, the wife could enjoy a cup of tea, and the children could have cakes. The family could listen to a band and enjoy the evening together. This idea seemed far from the strict, puritan rules in England, where workers, who don’t want to neglect their families, often end up in crowded, unpleasant bars. These places can lead people to drink too much, and later regret it, becoming a subject of temperance campaigns.

The City of the Plain

Arrival in Philippopolis

I arrived in Philippopolis on a Sunday evening after a long and tiring 16-hour journey along dusty roads. The horses were tired, but they picked up speed as we reached the cobbled streets of the city. The driver shouted and cracked his whip, trying to make it seem like he had been driving fast all day, which wasn’t true. I was exhausted and not looking forward to the kind of accommodation I would find.

As we entered the city, I saw a lit street, a lively café, and heard cheerful gipsy music. Hotel staff appeared, greeting me warmly. The owner came out, and yes, he had received my telegram! Rooms were ready for me, and I was shown to a nice, clean, simple room. After seeing myself in a mirror, I realized I was covered in dust, with my hair gray from the long journey. But no worries! A bath was waiting for me, followed by a nice little dinner. The wine? A pint of the local variety. Everything seemed perfect!

The City’s Setting and History

Philippopolis is located on the Plain of Thrace, which is incredibly flat and surrounded by tall, jagged mountains. The landscape is dotted with strange, large mounds, like exaggerated molehills. These mounds are ancient burial mounds called tumuli. In the summer, the plain feels hot and steamy, and through the haze, you can see a large hill that doesn’t look big from far away but, up close, shows several smaller hills, almost like a crouching animal. This is a huge piece of uneven granite that rises from the plain Customized Tours Bulgaria.

Many centuries ago, Philip of Macedon built a city on this hill. Today, that city is known as Philippopolis.

The Character of Philippopolis

Philippopolis has a unique character. The city has a strong passion for education, and its people are known for their hardworking nature. Bulgarians aren’t particularly speculative; they prefer stability, focusing on agriculture and the industry of their peasants. However, there are changes, as the Turks have returned to the area, influencing daily life.

The people of Philippopolis have distinct characteristics. They tend to avoid the heat of the summer by seeking shelter or cooler places. During my stay, I visited the Monastery of St. Petka, where I spent a night under the open sky, enjoying the calmness and simplicity of the place.

Extracting Attar from Rose-Water

Second Distillation Process

To get the pure attar from rose-water, a second distillation is needed. From 40 liters of rose-water, about 5 liters of liquid is distilled. During this process, the attar forms as a yellow, oily layer about 2 to 4 millimeters thick on top of the rose-water. This oily layer is carefully skimmed off using a small bowl shaped like an upside-down cone. The bowl has a small hole at the bottom to allow the heavier water to pass through, leaving the attar behind.

Adulteration of Attar

Mixing with Other Oils

One common way to adulterate attar of rose is by mixing it with attar of geranium, which comes from the Indian geranium or Palma rosa. This problem is not limited to Constantinople (Istanbul), where, in fact, no pure attar of rose is exported. In Bulgaria, some growers even mix it themselves. Since 1888, the Bulgarian government has tried to stop this practice by banning the import of geranium attar. However, it is still available illegally. Often, the attar is sent to Constantinople where it is freely mixed Coastal Bulgaria Tours.

Another method of adulteration is adding white roses to the red ones being distilled. White roses are less fragrant but richer in stearoptene (a chemical compound), which can affect the quality of the final product. In some cases, attar of geranium is also mixed with turpentine oil. As a result, it is possible that the attar of rose you buy in a high-end store may contain very little of the genuine perfume.

Life of the Rose Growers

The Realities of Rose Farming

The peasants who grow roses are generally kind and hardworking, but their lives are not as ideal as they may seem. There are no large rose farms; instead, small farmers tend to their own patches of roses. Merchants find it more profitable to buy roses from these small growers who use simple methods to make attar. This system works for merchants because they do not have to bear the risk of crop damage—the peasant farmers do.

The two or three main merchants in Kasanlik hold a monopoly over the rose market. They control the price of attar, and the rose growers have little choice but to sell their product to them. If a farmer refuses, there are few other buyers. While some merchants have made fortunes from attar of rose, the small farmers who grow it do not get rich.

The Ideal Conditions for Growing Roses

Why Kasanlik is Special for Attar Roses

While there are many regions where roses can grow well, Kasanlik has the best conditions for producing roses used in making attar (rose perfume). The attar rose is very sensitive to climate, and no other region is as suitable as Kasanlik for growing these particular roses. For example, in Brussa, Asia Minor, they tried using the same methods as Kasanlik but did not have the same success.

How Roses Are Planted

The Unique Rose Plantations in Kasanlik

Unlike other rose-growing regions, such as Grasse in France, the rose plantations in Kasanlik are not small, isolated plots. Instead, the roses are planted in long, high parallel hedges, about 100 yards long, taller than a man, with a six-foot gap between each hedge Coastal Bulgaria Tours.

The way the roses are planted is also unique to Kasanlik. Large branches of old rose trees are laid horizontally in ditches about 14 inches wide and deep. The branches, which are about a yard long, are placed side by side in the ditch. Then, part of the earth from the ditch is placed lightly on top of the branches, and a small amount of stable manure is added on top.

The Rose Harvest

Timing and Conditions for Picking Roses

The rose harvest starts in mid-May and lasts until mid-June, with the best conditions being moderate temperatures and frequent rain. This ensures a long harvest period of about a month. If the harvest is too quick, it causes problems for the grower. Every day during the blooming period, the flowers that are open or almost open are picked.

A hectare (2.5 acres) of rose bushes usually produces about 6,600 pounds of roses, which equals almost three million flowers. These three million roses will yield just 2.5 pounds of attar.

Distilling Rose Perfume

The Process of Making Attar

The distilling process for rose perfume is simple but requires specific equipment. The main tool is a large copper alembic, about 4 feet 10 inches tall, resting on a brick furnace. The alembic has a cistern (container) with a mushroom-shaped head and a cooling tube.

The cost of the alembic depends on its weight. For example, one weighing around 163 pounds costs about £4 6s. The cooling tube costs between 2s. 6d. and 10s.

The distilling process takes about one to one and a half hours. It is repeated many times until all the petals picked that day have been used. If the petals are left for more than 24 hours before being distilled, much of their fragrance is lost, resulting in a poor yield of attar.

The Legacy of Rose Growing

The Turkish Influence

The practice of growing roses and making rose perfume was brought to the region by the Turks. They cultivated roses, made the perfume, and provided the scent to the harems of the pashas (high-ranking officials) in Constantinople.

Today, the old Turkish traditions are gone. Now, large companies control the rose business, much like how American companies trade in wheat. These companies outbid each other to buy entire villages’ rose crops before the roses even start to bloom. They are in fierce competition and have representatives in cities like Paris, London, and New York Coastal Bulgaria Tours.

The History of Distilling Rose Perfume

How Rose Perfume Came to Kasanlik

The process of making rose perfume began in Persia, where the word “attar” (meaning fragrance) comes from. For many centuries, only rose-water was made from the roses. Around the beginning of the 17th century, people discovered how to extract the real rose essence.

The technique then spread from Persia to Arabia, from Arabia to the Barbary States (North Africa), and from there, a Turkish traveler brought a rose tree to Kasanlik. The same variety of rose, **Rosa damascena**, is now grown in Kasanlik and in places like Tunis, although it is becoming rarer there. Another variety, **Rosa alba**, can be traced back to Persia through the Turkish Empire, where it was once common.

The Growth of the Rose Industry

Kasanlik’s Rise in the Rose Business

About 50 years ago, Kasanlik produced between 400 and 500 pounds of attar (rose perfume). By 1904, this had increased to 8,147 pounds. The development of such a large-scale rose industry in this small region is due to several factors. The area has a climate similar to France, the soil is sandy and well-drained, and the many small streams from the mountains provide plenty of water for irrigation.

The Rose Garden of Europe

Where the Best Rose Perfume Comes From

If you love the finest perfume, *attar of roses*, you will likely find the name **Kasanlik** on the bottle.

But most people, especially women who adore this fragrance, do not often think about where Kasanlik is located. It could be in Germany, France, or Italy, and they wouldn’t really care.

In fact, Kasanlik is a small town in Bulgaria, on the Plain of Thrace, close to the Balkans. The plain is flat, and the mountains around it rise steeply. The land is mostly flat with valleys that look like dried-up lake beds, surrounded by hills. This landscape is similar across hundreds of miles Coastal Bulgaria Tours.

The Thracian Plain and its Roses

Kasanlik and the Rose Fields

A large part of the Thracian plain is dedicated to growing roses. In the area around Kasanlik, there are 173 villages that focus entirely on rose farming. Instead of growing crops like wheat, rye, or raising animals, the fields are filled with roses. This region is known as the largest rose garden in the world, stretching 80 miles long.

The landscape is covered with roses, and the air is filled with their sweet scent. While the soil might not be especially rich, it has a unique quality, much like the soil of the Champagne region in France, which is perfect for growing grapes. This special soil helps produce roses that create the best fragrance.

The Surrender at Shipka Pass

The Final Struggle

The Turks fought desperately, but it was all in vain. Out of the 32,000 soldiers, all of them surrendered unconditionally. The Russians then moved down the southern slopes toward Shipka village.

A Church to Commemorate the Victory

In Shipka village, there is a large, beautiful Russian-Greek church built to honor the victory. The gold dome with a cross on top shines brightly in the sun, visible from 20 miles away. However, there is no mention of the bad behavior of the Russian troops when they took over the village, including looting, drinking, and other harmful actions.

Reflections on the Past

An Old Man’s View

An old man shared his thoughts with me. He said, “The Turks did wrong things, but they were never as bad as the Russians.” When I asked him if he was happy that the Turks were gone and Bulgaria was free, he replied, “Not really. When the Turks were in control, taxes were low. Now, taxes are high. We also had a bigger market for our goods when we were part of the Ottoman Empire. Now, as a separate country, other nations make it hard for us to sell our products. Maybe the old days were better Bulgarian Coast.”

Stories of the Past

My guide continued with more stories from the past. He told me about how Turkish brigands used to steal the trousers of Christians and then force them to say “Allah giveth” at gunpoint to ease their conscience.

The View from Shipka Pass

The First Glimpse of the Plain of Thrace

From the top of the pass, I could see the Plain of Thrace stretching out before me, green and peaceful, all the way to the horizon. The heat was intense, but a cool breeze helped to ease it. I rested my tired horse and took in the silent, beautiful landscape, saddened by the thought of the wars that had once ravaged this land.

The Journey Down

We made our way down the hot, rocky path that felt like walking on burning coals. The heat from the rocks hit my face like a blast from an oven. I was covered in dust, and my mouth felt dry. Soon, we reached the village, where we quenched our thirst with fresh grapes.

The Ride to the Pass

Early Morning Ride

We rode quickly because I wanted to get past the toughest part of the climb before the heat became unbearable. After four hours, we reached the bottom of the Pass. We stopped at a small inn where I had a simple breakfast of eggs and black bread. Then we were off again.

The Climb Begins

At first, the path was wide and easy. But soon it became narrower and rougher, and our horses started sweating heavily. In some places, we had to get off and walk. We followed old paths through the woods, made during battles so that soldiers could move out of sight from the Turks on the hills. I rode past a small hill where the Russian headquarters were, and I climbed a steep rock where cannons had been placed to help defend the Pass Bulgarian Coast.

The Battle of Shipka Pass

The Silent Landscape

Now, everything was quiet under the hot morning sun. The view was beautiful, with dark ravines covered in cypress trees and hills stretching out into the distance. The heat made everything look blurry, and the distance seemed endless.

A History of Fighting

Twenty-eight years ago, the area was filled with the sounds of heavy cannon fire. The Russians were to the north, and the Turks were to the south. They fought fiercely on this mountain road. There were many battles in the hills, with each side gaining and losing ground. One battle lasted for seven days, and after a short break, the Turks attacked again. They captured Mount Nicholas, a key point in the Pass, but the Russians eventually defeated them in a bloody battle and pushed them into the southern ravines.

The Turks waited there until winter, and the final battle took place in thick mist and heavy snow. The Turks were outnumbered and finally defeated.

Arrival in Gabrova

The Turkish-Like Town

I arrived in Gabrova, a town that felt very Turkish with more mosques than churches. It is a busy place, known for trading leather and wool products.

The Inn

The inn where I stayed was dirty, and I had to pay three francs for the room, which seemed too much. It was also difficult to find food because it was a Church fast day. Luckily, I found an old Turkish man who didn’t care about the Christian rules and managed to get me some fish—just four small sprats. With a piece of bread and a pint of wine, this became dinner for me and my companion Bulgarian Coast.

Early Morning Departure

A Busy Morning

At 5:00 in the morning, I heard a knock at my door. Within ten minutes, I was in the inn yard, ready to leave. I had rented four horses the night before. I chose the best horse, a wild stallion, for myself, gave the second best to my companion, and left the guide to choose between the last two horses, one for him and one for carrying our bags.

We didn’t have time for breakfast, just a tiny cup of coffee, no bigger than a couple of thimbles. So, we saddled up and set off at dawn.

Riding in a Turkish Saddle

My saddle was Turkish. Throughout the day, I realized that a Turk’s body must be shaped differently than a Briton’s. The high pommel, the brass decorations, and the shovel-like stirrups might look nice in a painting, but they were not comfortable for riding. Plain pigskin saddles are much better.

The Joy of the Morning Ride

Despite the uncomfortable saddle and not having had breakfast, the joy of early morning riding made me want to sing. We sang as we cantered along. We greeted the peasants working in the fields, and we met groups of them heading into town to sell goods. The men drove goats, the married women worked on spinning wool as they walked, and the young women wore red flowers in their hair to show they were open to being courted.

Monuments to Russian Heroes

The Russian Monuments

In the mountains, there are tall, white obelisks that stand as reminders of the bravery of Russian soldiers. These monuments honor the courage of famous Russian regiments. They tell stories of the heroism shown during the battles. However, I did not see any monument honoring the brave Turkish soldiers. No one knows where the Turkish soldiers were buried.

A Quiet Moment in Nature

After riding for hours under the hot sun, the sound of a bird replaces the noise of battle. As I dismounted, I sought shelter in the shade of trees to rest and cool down. The peaceful sound of nature was a welcome change after the long ride Bulgarian Coast.

Riding Through Bulgarian Villages

The Bulgarian Villages

I spent most of a day riding through Bulgarian villages. The houses in these villages were low with large roofs that provided plenty of shade. Vines hung across the small streets. As I rode, the villagers offered me bunches of grapes, which I happily accepted. Along the narrow paths, there were countless trees full of plums, tart and refreshing, perfect for a dusty traveler.

The Legacy of Turkish Rule

Signs of the Turkish past were still visible. Many of the peasants wore clothes similar to those worn by the Turks, including colorful turbans. Although the people were Bulgarian by heritage, some still followed the Muslim faith. This was a result of the Turkish rule, when the conquerors forced the local people to convert to Islam. Over time, the people continued to follow the religion, even after the Turks left and the Bulgarians became free. This led to tension between those who followed Islam and those who became Christians.

The Monastery of the Transfiguration

A Peaceful Welcome

For a moment, I forgot I was at a monastery. If young women in short skirts and long hair had appeared, singing and dancing, I would have believed it was some kind of celebration. But instead, a kind monk in a long robe came forward and greeted me with a handshake.

“Come and rest,” he said.

We went into a quiet, shady balcony that overlooked the hills below. On one side, there was a wide, dry plain. It was cool, with a light breeze, and we watched eagles soaring in the wind Bulgarian Coast.

A Walk Around the Monastery

I took a walk around the monastery. The monks were proud of the vines that grew next to their rooms, and they were especially proud of the wine they made from them. The church was small and white, with frescoes of saints. The saints were probably good people, but their bodies in the pictures were a little strange.

The refectory, where the monks ate, was a long, low room. They ate vegetables in silence, while one monk read aloud a religious text. My host, the kind monk, had pictures of dead friends on the wall in his room. These were photos of people after they had passed away, posed on tables with their relatives standing around them—much like wedding photos, but sadder.

Over the Shipka Pass

The Battle of 1877

In the Shipka Pass, in the first Balkan mountain range, the fiercest fighting took place between the Turks and the Russians in 1877. The pass is a narrow road through black rocks, surrounded by wild and wooded land. If you look closely, you can still find old, overgrown trenches where soldiers once fired at each other. On the slopes of the mountains, there are mounds of earth, like giant molehills—these are the graves of soldiers.

There is one cemetery in the area, but it is in poor condition. The wall around it is broken, and many of the crosses are crooked or fallen. The graves are covered with tall grass, and no flowers grow there. People cried when the officers were buried, but now they are forgotten.

The Quiet Relics of Bulgaria's Past

The Church of the Forty Martyrs

Like many places, Bulgaria has quiet reminders of its noble past in the form of old churches. Walking down a rocky hillside, I arrived at the Church of the Forty Martyrs. It has a low roof, a dim, vault-like interior, but it is very strong. This church was built by King John Osen in 1330. In 1389, the Turks turned it into a mosque, and Christians couldn’t worship there again until 1877. Only part of the original building remains. Some of the granite pillars are from different periods: one came from a Roman temple, and another is clearly Greek. The Christians used pieces from earlier buildings. I looked through books of prayers written in ancient Slavic, with pages that were thin, brown, and crumbling in my hands.

The Metropolitan Church

I continued to a nearby church, the Metropolitan Church, which is now mostly forgotten, holding only one service a year. The old woman who took care of the church lost the key, but she suggested breaking the lock. After waiting for nearly an hour and smoking in the shade, the key was found. Inside, the church was dark, and the frescoes of saints had strange, exaggerated faces. The pillars were made of black marble, probably taken from a Greek temple. In a small room, I found old manuscripts hidden behind a crack in the wall—these could be treasures for someone who studies history. The monks’ seats were covered in dust and cobwebs. There were many ikons hanging in the dim light, and large candelabras hung from the ceiling Ancient Bulgaria Tour.

The church felt eerie, silent, and forgotten by most. But I couldn’t help wondering if the spirits of those who once worshipped here, like children and old men, might still visit. For an hour, I had the church to myself. I sat in one of the monk’s seats, and sunlight shone down from a crack in the roof, lighting up the Virgin’s face. It was a peaceful, thoughtful hour.

The Monastery of the Transfiguration

A Bright and Colorful Place

The sun was high in the sky, and the road was dusty as we raced towards the Monastery of the Transfiguration. The path twisted and turned, climbing higher and higher. We left the main road and walked through a cool area filled with tall trees. The quiet was broken by the sound of water dripping. After a while, we arrived at the monastery. It wasn’t like the old, crumbling buildings I had seen before. This monastery was bright and colorful. The grass was a rich green, and the sky was a deep blue. The white walls were covered in bright, colorful pictures, and the roof tiles had a warm, reddish color. Vines grew everywhere, adding to the lively, beautiful atmosphere.

A Visit to Tirnova

A Strange Entrance

As I entered the town of Tirnova, I felt like I was walking onto a stage set during a performance. The scene was filled with dark-skinned peasants dressed in colorful clothes, and my grey suit didn’t fit in with the bright colors around me. I felt out of place among the people in the market.

A Bumpy Ride

I had a cheerful driver who was dressed in red fabric wrapped around his waist, making him look even more like a “dumpling.” I was in a bumpy, rickety carriage that bounced over the cobblestones. It felt like a game of cup-and-ball, where I was the ball. Although I never fell out, I was shaken more in a short two-mile ride than some people are in a train crash.

When we reached a dark and old inn, my driver asked for 1 shilling and 3 pennies for the ride. I gave him 1 shilling and 8 pennies, and he bowed deeply in thanks Ancient Bulgaria Tour.

The Inn Experience

At the inn, I sat on a wobbly chair—everything in Tirnova seems uneven. I ordered half a pint of good wine, which cost 3 pennies, and a small glass of local brandy for my friend, which cost just 1 penny. The landlord was a serious man, and he led us upstairs to a room. The stairs were crooked, and the door to the room refused to close properly.

Inside, the bed had four legs, but it never stood on all four at once. It wobbled constantly, trying (and failing) to stand on only two.

Water Troubles

I asked for water to wash off the dirt from my long journey. They brought me a pint, but that wasn’t enough. So, I ordered four pails of water. When they arrived, two of the pails leaked, and the water spilled into the restaurant below. It wasn’t the best experience, but it added to the charm of Tirnova’s rustic, old-world atmosphere.

The Bulgarian Desire for Independence

The Bulgarians are a democratic people who strongly value their independence. They have a strong sense of freedom and are reluctant to accept any form of aristocracy. However, Prince Ferdinand’s attempts to create an aristocracy do not sit well with the people. Around him, there is a group of ministers, some of whom are above reproach, but many are suspected of using their power for personal gain. Political corruption in Bulgaria is as common as it is in the United States. The ruling party, which supports the Prince, stays in power because they use money to bribe voters and influence elections.

Many educated Bulgarians are tired of this system and want to see change. However, efforts to bring about honesty and fairness are often overwhelmed by corruption. While Bulgaria’s Constitution is supposed to be democratic, in reality, it is more autocratic. The Prince holds more power than most constitutional monarchs. He actively interferes in politics, and his ministers, who are loyal to him, also have considerable power. The Sobranje, or Parliament, does not truly represent the people, as it lacks the power of other European legislative bodies. The government has systems in place, not always reliable or honest, to control election outcomes Adventure Bulgaria Tour.

Bulgaria’s Ambitions and Disputes over Macedonia

The Bulgarians are an ambitious people. They are proud of the progress their country has made since gaining independence from the Ottoman Empire. However, there is a sense that they may overestimate their strength and abilities. Many Bulgarians feel that they should reclaim lands that Austria took from them and gave to Serbia. There is also a strong desire to expand Bulgaria into a larger nation, and many people look towards the region of Macedonia. It is believed that many of the Christians in Macedonia are of Bulgarian descent.

Since Bulgaria gained its independence, many Bulgarians from Macedonia have moved to Bulgaria, hoping for more freedom. These immigrants are often more educated and intelligent than the average Bulgarian, but they do not always want to see Macedonia become part of Bulgaria. Instead, some of them are working for an independent Macedonia, with Macedonian Bulgarians in charge of the region, alongside other ethnic groups like the Turks, Serbs, Romanians, and Greeks.

As a result, there are two opposing groups in Bulgaria when it comes to the issue of Macedonia. One group wants a “Big Bulgaria,” which would include Macedonia, while the other wants Macedonia to be an independent country. This disagreement has led to strong feelings and tension between the two groups.

In summary, while the Bulgarians are proud of their independence and achievements, they face challenges both within their own government and in their relations with neighboring regions. The political system, marked by corruption and a lack of true democracy, continues to be a source of frustration for many. At the same time, the desire for territorial expansion, particularly regarding Macedonia, divides the nation and creates tension between different factions. Despite these internal conflicts, Bulgaria remains a country driven by ambition and the hope of greater freedom and power.

The Growth of Bulgaria and Tensions with Russia

Seven years after Bulgaria gained its independence, northern European Turkey, known as Roumelia and mainly populated by Bulgarians, joined with the southern part of Bulgaria. This unification created a larger Bulgarian state. However, Russia did not welcome this change. It was fine for Russia to help create a small Bulgarian nation from a part of the Ottoman Empire, as it was seen as a way to extend Russian influence. But a bigger Bulgaria, with its own ambitions of independence, made Russia uneasy.

Czar Alexander III of Russia did not like the idea of an expanded Bulgaria that might try to stand alone. To show his displeasure, Russia withdrew all of its officers who had helped train the Bulgarian army. The Russians believed that Bulgaria lacked the ability to defend itself without their help. During this period, tensions with neighboring Serbia escalated. Encouraged by Austria, Serbia went to war with Bulgaria. However, Bulgaria, under Prince Alexander, defeated the Serbs in battle. Bulgaria even considered taking over Serbia, but Austria stepped in, forcing Bulgaria to stop and give up some of the land it had gained. This conflict created deep resentment between Serbia and Bulgaria. Serbia felt humiliated by its defeat, while Bulgaria was angry about losing territory it had fought for Adventure Bulgaria Tour.

Bulgaria’s Struggles with Russia and Prince Alexander

Russia’s frustration with Bulgaria grew as the country began to act more independently. Russia had helped Bulgaria gain its freedom, but Bulgaria’s desire to stand alone angered the Russian government. The situation worsened when Russia kidnapped Prince Alexander, Bulgaria’s ruler, and held him captive. After public outcry from Europe, Russia released him, but continued to make life difficult for the Prince. The stress of the situation led Prince Alexander to abdicate and leave Bulgaria.

After Prince Alexander’s departure, Bulgaria was in turmoil. It was then that Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg was chosen by the Sobranje, or Parliament, to be the new ruler. Under his leadership, Bulgaria began to progress, although his rule was not without controversy.

Prince Ferdinand and His Strained Relationship with the People

Prince Ferdinand was a clever and shrewd leader. However, his intelligence and political skills were not always appreciated by the Bulgarian people. Over the years, he had many opportunities to win their hearts, but he failed to do so. Many Bulgarians believe that Prince Ferdinand does not like them or their country. His actions, such as choosing to live in other countries like Austria or France rather than in Bulgaria, only fueled this belief.

Additionally, Prince Ferdinand’s personal expenses were paid from the country’s budget, which came mostly from the taxes of Bulgarian peasants. His official allowance amounted to around a million and a quarter francs, but many Bulgarians felt that this money should be spent in Bulgaria, not in foreign cities like Vienna or Paris. As a result, Prince Ferdinand remained unpopular with many of his people. His failure to connect with them on a personal level led to ongoing dissatisfaction with his rule.

Bulgaria’s journey to independence has been marked by both progress and challenges. The country’s history is filled with struggles, both internal and external, as it worked to define itself as a nation. While Prince Ferdinand helped lead Bulgaria forward, his strained relationship with the people and his preference for life abroad made him an unpopular figure. Despite these difficulties, Bulgaria has continued to grow, driven by the determination of its people.

Understanding the Bulgarian Character

The Bulgarian is a complex individual, and to truly understand him, you must look beyond his surface appearance. He often comes across as serious, even gloomy, with a lack of visible refinement. His behavior can seem unkempt, and he tends to be direct in his manner, rarely using polite expressions like “thank you.” He dislikes the idea of being subordinate to others, so to avoid any hint of this, he might seem rude at times. He is often seen as stubborn and not easily moved by emotions or grand speeches. In business, he may appear slow, but he is a dedicated and hardworking person. He is particularly known for his skill in agriculture, making him one of the best farmers in the world. The Bulgarian may not be quick to express emotions, but he loves his country in a steady and determined way. Though he might not move fast, he is always moving forward. This consistent, determined nature is why Bulgaria has made steady progress since gaining its independence.

A History of Change and Conflict

The history of Bulgaria is full of change, much like a kaleidoscope, with different peoples and cultures influencing the country over time. The Romans were the first to make it a province, and after them, the Goths and Huns swept through the region. Many different tribes invaded Bulgaria, often fighting and killing each other. The main tribe that ruled the area was the Bulgari tribe, originally from the Volga region with a mixture of Asiatic ancestry. This tribe later mixed with the Slavs, and the Bulgarian people are more Slav than they realize, though they may not be aware of it Adventure Bulgaria Tour.

The Bulgarian language originally belonged to the Slavic group and still retains many Slavic elements today. However, over time, influences from other groups, such as the Vlach and Russians, changed it. While modern Bulgarian is a Slavic language, it has been affected by outside influences, much like how the English language absorbed words from other cultures. Despite these changes, Bulgarian remains a language with a solid identity.

The Struggle for Independence

The Bulgarians’ history also involves a series of struggles for independence. In the 12th century, the various Bulgarian tribes united and threw off Byzantine rule, only to later fall under the control of the Serbian empire. Eventually, both Bulgaria and Serbia were conquered by the Ottoman Turks, and for nearly 500 years, the country remained under Turkish control.

However, in the late 19th century, Russia, interested in controlling access to the Bosphorus, became the liberator of Bulgaria. After significant battles, including the Siege of Plevna and the defense of Shipka Pass, Russia helped free Bulgaria from Ottoman rule. The Treaty of Berlin in 1878 officially recognized Bulgaria as an autonomous and tributary principality, though it still remained under the nominal control of the Sultan.

Through centuries of foreign rule, conflict, and change, the Bulgarian people have developed a unique identity characterized by resilience, hard work, and a deep, quiet love for their homeland. Despite facing many challenges, they have shown steady progress, and today, Bulgaria continues to move forward, driven by the same determination that has always defined the Bulgarian spirit.