Finding the Right Path

Using the Compass

I used my pocket compass to know the direction, and my maps showed that the valley would lead to Berat. For an hour, we struggled through the tough terrain. Finally, we found a trail and followed it. Soon, we met a peasant with a couple of mules who helped us. He told us that instead of staying in the valley, we could take a shortcut over a hill that would save us three or four hours.

The Old Roman Path

We took the shortcut. It was part of an old Roman road, made of huge stones that were worn down into deep cups by years of use. There was a real risk that one of our horses might break a leg. The path was steep like stairs and was covered with trees. We had to bend down so that our cheeks were against the horses’ manes. The trees were so thick that, in some places, it felt like we were going through a tunnel Istanbul Day Tours.

The Roman Legions

I hoped that the Roman legions had an easier time traveling on this path than the Turkish soldiers and I did that rainy afternoon. The only comfort we had was knowing we were on the right road.

Clear Skies and Beautiful Views

When we reached the mountain top, the rain stopped, and we saw the clearest blue sky. Below us, the valleys were filled with thick clouds.

Reaching Berat

Despite the wet and difficult day, we were excited to finally see Berat. The city isn’t easy to find. It sits on a large, black rock that guards the entrance to the valley. In the sunlight, it looked like a medieval fortress, with tall walls and towers. But Berat has grown over time, and now it stretches down a slope toward the River Arum. There’s also a beautiful Roman bridge nearby.

The City’s Poor Conditions

Even though the upper city looked amazing in the sunset, all romantic thoughts disappeared as we walked through its gates. The upper city was very dirty, and the lower city was even worse. I was told it hadn’t rained for three months, but now, after a couple of days of rain, the sun was shining on the damp mess. The conditions were terrible.

The upper town is mainly home to Albanian Christians, while the lower town is mostly inhabited by Albanian Muslims. Both parts of the city seemed to be competing to see who could make the place the most unhealthy, with horrible smells and fever-causing conditions.