A Difficult Time in Berat

Feeling Sick and In Pain

I had a fever for a couple of days, and I only started to feel better after I went up into the hills in pain, hoping it would help. Because of this, my memories of Berat are not as pleasant as I would like them to be. I had bad sleeping conditions and mainly ate quinine to help with the fever. If I had been feeling better, I would have left the first morning, but I was so weak, and I couldn’t find anyone to guide me through the mountains to Koritza, which was to the east.

Trying to Find a Way to Koritza

I had maps from Austria that showed a route, but when I asked the Governor of Berat about it, he didn’t know of any path. I told him I was heading back to Monastir, but I couldn’t explain that I wanted to go by land. The Governor kept suggesting that I should go to the coast, to Yalona, for example, where I could catch a boat to Salonika and then take a train to Monastir. It seemed like an easy and comfortable journey compared to crossing the mountains, which he said no one had ever done before Istanbul Day Tours.

Speaking to Muleteers

I tried talking to muleteers, but it wasn’t easy. I had to communicate through two people: my dragoman who spoke Turkish, and the captain of the guard, who spoke both Turkish and Albanian. The muleteers only spoke Albanian, so a lot of information was lost in translation. The captain didn’t want to go and kept saying that there were no villages, no food, and the mountain paths would be too dangerous for the horses, especially in the rain.

Abandoning My Plan

Because of all this, I had to give up my plan to cross the mountains to Koritza in the way I wanted. I thought I could have made the journey in three days, even with the tough terrain.

A Surprising Discovery

A week later, when I reached Koritza using a different route, everyone there told me that the journey between Koritza and Berat was common, and that although it took muleteers three days, anyone traveling fast could easily do it in two! This kind of difference in information is what makes it so hard to understand the thinking of people from the East.