Our Greek capots

In the morning our landlord had prepared for us a couple of boiled turkeys, some eggs and milk, which made ample amends for our bad supper.

We had proceeded but a few miles, when it began to rain violently and continued the whole day without intermission. Our Greek capots, which we were assured at Smyrna would resist twelve hours’ rain, were wet through in less than three. The additional weight of our clothes when wet soon knocked up our wretched mules, so that after a most disagreeable ride of eight hours, we were obliged to take up our residence for the night in such an habitation as few Europeans have ever visited. It was a wretched hovel of twenty feet long, at one end of which were some cows and sheep, which we turned out to make room for horses, while [we] were obliged tocontent ourselves with the other corner. To complete our misery, we had no provisions left, and could procure nothing but some stinking camel’s flesh, highly seasoned with garlic, and [which] is here esteemed a most delicate viand by the conductors of caravans who frequent these roads.

In the morning I was astonished to find that my faithful Pauolo had, during the night, baked some bread, made of some coarse flour which he was fortunate enough to find in the village, and procured some sheep’s milk, so that we were able to make a most delicious breakfast. It cannot be imagined how much such little attentions are valued in a servant: when removed from all friends and relations, in a savage and remote country, your personal influence and property lose their weight and consequence and you are left to shift for yourself, with those advantages which nature and not any fortuitous circumstances may have bestowed on you.

Dear Pauolo

In such a situation the servant has, very often, the advantage over his master, either by his personal strength, his unimpaired constitution, or his knowledge of useful arts. If to these qualifications he adds, as my dear Pauolo did, a good and feeling heart, a sensible mind, a cheerful disposition and a fidelity that cannot be shaken, he then becomes a most valuable friend : he is your companion, and you cheerfully and implicitly look up to him for that assistance which you cannot derive from your own powers, and which he bestows with the beneficence of a friend and the respectful submission of an inferior.